I had the genuine pleasure of sharing the Dallas-Las Vegas leg of my trip with Bully, a one-year-old Air Force bomb-sniffing trainee. As I settled into my seat, two Air Force guys walked onto the plane, one with a jet-black German shepherd, the other with a speckled Dutch shepherd. The Dutch shepherd took a window seat next to his handler's middle seat, but the German shepherd could not fit into his assigned area, so the guy next to me switched with the handler, as we were in the first row and there was plenty of floor space right in front of me. Bully, the eager, earnest, hopeful and perfectly-behaved canine passenger, settled in right at my feet. He even had a collar with a special Air Force badge on it. He was on his way to a Nevada Air Force base to finish up some training before being sent on a tour of duty to Iraq. I learned that each Air Force base has on staff six or seven bomb dogs, and Bully was being groomed for this elite job. It was his first time on an airplane, but he was courteous, thoughtful of the other passengers, and did not speak unless spoken to. I like to think we were good friends by the time we landed in Vegas, where it was 98 degrees at 9:00 pm.
I checked into my hotel, which I would enthusiastically endorse and recommend to you. It's called THEhotel (yes, spelled in that super-hip way) at Mandalay Bay, and it sprouted out of the grounds of the Mandalay Bay property since I was there last in September of 2003 for my bachelor party, which was the exciting leadup to my . . . wedding that never took place! I have to give this hotel high marks. It starts with that Ian Schrager / Royalton / W / Viceroy / Standard brand of sleekness and attitude, but it actually backs it all up with excellent service and a good hotel experience, which those other places annoyingly lack.
The Lobby
My "room" ended up being a huge two-room suite, with two bathrooms and multiple plasma TVs, etc. I was much more pleased than my friend Merrilee was during her truncated stay at the Viceroy in Santa Monica. There, if you were lucky enough to get by the phalanx of Hugo Boss-clad, earphone-wearing bouncers barring all non-desirables from the grounds of the hotel, you would have found poor Merrilee trying to settle into a suite featuring a tomato-juice-splattered wall and cigarette-butt-filled chandelier. For all of the hype and attitude, most of these NY / LA / Miami places stink when it comes to actually providing anything of value. THEhotel had all the glitz and black-and-white design of the others, but it was a quality hotel and I would stay there again.
My private-investigator / lawyer / reality-show-producer / tournament-poker-player friend Marty Marcus drove out from LA yesterday, and we logged in some serious time at the tables. We spent the afternoon at the Mirage poker room, where I found myself wondering how many of the players had done jail time. Whenever I go to Vegas I feel a little like Arnold Schwarzenegger's character who travels to Mars for "vacation" in Total Recall, and this time the cast of characters did not disappoint!
I hadn't planted myself at the first table for more than five minutes when a remarkable specimen appeared onstage. I'd say this guy was around 70. Over his gut he wore a big, billowy silk shirt of every shade of caramel and dog poop in a sort of swirly pattern (note: I think my friend R has this same shirt), and it accented the deep, rich orange of his carefully-maintained fake tan, which helped to provide good background color for his forearms, which were covered in thick yellow fur. In case you hadn't guessed, he was wearing the mandatory gold-and-diamond-studded watch and accompanying dangling gold bracelet. Atop the noggin of this guy was a wig that was so bad it looked more like a hat that was supposed to look like a wig, rather than an actual wig. It was a smooth mass of neat, uniform waves, and the color was a deep yellow. Not at all blond, but yellow. This guy was perfectly nice, but it made me think of that expression where everyone in a room tries to ignore the fact that there's an elephant in the room. If somebody had sat down at the table in a full scuba suit it could not have looked any stranger. . . .
I was moved shortly to another table, which was a scream. There were multiple young lawyers at the table, a hard-to-read, poker-faced, hugely fat Chinese guy with about $3,000 in chips in front of him (note: that's a lot of chips for the $2-5/$200-500 game I was playing), and the afternoon's entertainment: A real Ultimate Fighter. This guy was insane!! For those of you who don't know, there is a sport that has really exploded over the last few years where professional fighters get into a ring and basically try to kill each other.
Ultimate Fighting
No boxing gloves, and from what I can tell, hardly any rules. Most of them use a sort of mixed-martial arts approach, but one guy usually ends up pinned to the mat and receives a series of say, maybe seventy or eighty direct knee blows to the temple. I saw a documentary on this sport once, and it was truly disturbing. Anyway, some of the younger guys at the table knew this guy well from all the Pay-Per-View fights they had seen him win on cable. He actually claimed to have a degree from Wharton, and he seemed pretty smart, despite making a living as a human pit bull. I ended up losing a big pot to him when he flopped a set of fours to my high pair, but it was worth the entertainment of observing him stir things up. During one hand, he was heads-up against Marty, and he not only flashed him one of his cards while the betting rounds were still going, but then his second card too! Nutty.
Last night, we had a small group for dinner at Mix, the new Alain Ducasse restaurant on the 64th floor of my hotel, with pretty amazing views all the way up the Strip.
View of the restaurant at Mix
This guy has restaurants in New York, Paris and Monte Carlo, and this one does its best to maintain the level of polished coolness and Iron-Chef level cuisine to which his customers are accustomed. The cavernous indoor-outdoor dining room had ceilings that must have been sixty feet high, with a special chandelier of blown-glass spheres that encircled the whole space, and lots of sweeping white curving staircases. As the endless supply of four-button-Armani-and-earphone wearing managers rushed around to make sure the Hollywood types, models, and shady Russian tycoons were happy, I found myself feeling glad that Tony Montana was killed in a hail of bullets at the end of Scarface, because if he had lived, he would undoubtedly be dining here at Mix on this night, and the chances would be high that I would find myself caught in the crossfire of Uzi spray dealt out by a rival drug lord's goons.
We followed dinner up with another six or seven hours of poker, this time at the Mandalay's room. This was my first time playing poker (as opposed to blackjack or craps) in a casino, and it was a fascinating experience. I love my weekly poker night here on the North Shore, but I learned a lot by playing in a real casino with real poker players.
I love poker for the same reason I love trading in the financial markets: It is a 100% true and pure meritocracy. It doesn't matter who you know, how good-looking you are, or how well you can smooth-talk people. It comes down to skill, and whether your chip stack grows or shrinks.
I found that in the casino, it takes a little more concentration to keep track of the pot size (which helps you determine your pot odds and implied pot odds), as all those bets, raises and reraises are accompanied by a host of other stimuli (like the Red Sox game on a TV right above the table, for instance). Staying on top of all the math while trying to employ psychology to read your opponents' cards must be balanced with the fun table chatter, which is a fascinating combination of friendly banter and sly strategy. Anyway, I managed to hold my own, and I felt like I learned a lot. The biggest pot I lost was actually to Marty, who completely busted me out with a full house when I thought he was bluffing me.
Well, I succeeded in sticking more or less to my 36-hour time limit for Vegas, so I live to see another day! I realized on my flight back to Boston the odd sense in the back of my mind. The "what's wrong with this picture" feeling was there because this was my first non-weekend Vegas trip, and my flight was full of businessmen, rather than the usual collection of strippers and guys who look like Sopranos extras . . . .